Naples is a city with ancient history whose streets are filled with the scent of culture, art, romance and nostalgia to the past. And when we think of historic cities, its name is one of the first to come to mind. The city is not associated with music, theater and paintings but with the art of sewing craft. It is said that Italian tailors have developed a sixth sense and know the morphology of its customers’ bodies to such perfection that the fittings are to the minimum and the seam is outstanding. Their talent is so remarkable that they deservedly earned their own trademark – Neapolitan style.
When we talk about this style of sewing, the most emblematic representative is the Neapolitan jacket whose main characteristic is the soft shoulder. The Neapolitan Shoulder line of Desizo Monni is included only in the Tailor Made. The jackets produced in this manner are designed for the lovers of men’s fashion who value their uniqueness, style and position in society. A large amount of work with needle and thread is done during their making. The famous soft shoulder is achieved through the use of very thin, and sometimes the lack of shoulder pads. Putting them or not is determined by the tailor assessing the customer, but in any case, the overall final effect is softer and rounded shoulder.
The larger frill at the top of the sleeve, which is also a distinctive feature of Neapolitan jackets, is not made for aesthetic, although the devotees of this style certainly say it is beautiful. In fact, the wider sleeve is made mostly for convenience and freedom of movements. The classic Neapolitan jackets are with relatively tailored design, a small armhole and lightweight chest canvas for more freedom of the hands’ movement. To describe the Neapolitan way of sewing, most often the term „sleeve as a shirt“ is used. The reserves’ hemming to shoulder, but not to the sleeve, allows the jacket to follow more naturally the body’s forms at the arm. These reserves don’t stand naturally in this direction and should be fixed with decorative stitching of which only small dots near the armhole are seen. Traditionally, these jacket seams are made by hand. They often follow almost all its seams; they are placed on covers, top pocket, and lapel collar. Other points that are traditionally processed manually in Neapolitan jackets are sewing the bottom felt collar to the neckline of the jacket and shaping it at both ends; knitting the buttonholes of the jacket with multiple hand stitches close to each other; using less lining for natural standing garment which is softer, light and airy and hand-sewing the jacket’s hem in order the visible seams on the front side not to be visible.
Sewing by hand
Law number one for the connoisseur and the man of class is that anything worn by him must be specifically cut or in strictly limited quantities. The real luxury in a man’s suit is the uniqueness of the clothes made especially for him with the exclusive participation of handwork. In Desizo Monni this is done with a needle, thread and scissors. In Bulgaria, Desizo Monni is the only brand that in its service Tailor Made offers the possibility a men’s jacket to be sewn by hand.
The handmade tradition follows the Neapolitan style of sewing and more specifically – the way the sleeve is stitched. This is the same technique that is used for sewing a shirt sleeve. The reserves’ hemming to shoulder, but not to the sleeve, allows the jacket to follow more naturally the body’s forms at the arm. These reserves don’t stand naturally in this direction and should be fixed with decorative stitching of which only small dots near the armhole are seen. Traditionally, these jacket seams are made by hand. They often follow almost all its seams; they are placed on covers, top pocket, and lapel collar.
Other points that are traditionally processed manually in jackets are:
• The knitting of the buttonholes;
• Jacket hem are sewn by hand;
• Handmade details of the collar;
• In addition to the hand-stitching of the sleeve of fabric, also the cushions are hand-stitched;
As authenticity proof of the sewing by hand of the garment the brand gives the owner of such a man’s suit a special certificate where the men’s jacket elements made by hand are outlined. Typical of the hand sewn jackets is that they show high class, which is recognized only by fellows.